City Guide: Hobart

Written by Molly Grover

Intro

Hello! Sydney travel correspondent Molly here.

By day I’m a multi-disciplinary designer, creating interactive exhibitions for museums and galleries. By night I design and make jewellery. And when I’m not doing either of the above, I love to travel and shoot film, with my ever-growing collection of op-shopped cameras! 

I’ve been lucky enough to see a lot of Australia with my family on roadtrips, and the older I get, the more I appreciate the vast, wild, beautiful country I get to call home.

I recently spent a few days eating my way around Hobart and surrounds with family. My two priorities when travelling are great food and great views, and so I hope to share a few of these with you, for the next time you find yourself on the Apple Isle. 

Hobart is a foodie destination, with incredible local produce and some even more incredible local talent. If you’re travelling on foot, the city has some delicious gems. But if you want to get really serious, hire a car for even more food and view hunting off the beaten track. Even more next level is to bring your own car, for those unsealed road situations, like South Bruny Island (which I’ll get to later).

Be warned, the water is icy (next stop Antarctica!). Dare you to go for a dip. I did.

Be warned, the water is icy (next stop Antarctica!). Dare you to go for a dip. I did.


Where to stay

West Hobart has a lovely quaint and quiet feel, with some beautiful hilltop views! But keep in mind, hilltop views means a car is recommended (unless you’re up for feeling the burn at the end of each day of exploring - a very valid way to avoid the gym). 

If you’re without a car, the waterfront is much more flat, walkable, and equally lovely.

Our quirky mid-century Airbnb

Our quirky mid-century Airbnb

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Planning where to eat (obvi)

Planning where to eat (obvi)


Where to eat


Tried by myself or recommended

Pigeon Whole Bakers
A tiny cafe that serves brekky, and also sells a few (literally a few) of their freshly made loaves – get in quick if you want one.


Farm Gate Market 
Get the congee. 


Fico
Get the risotto and never be the same again. Seriously. 


Templo
(recommended)


Franklin
(recommended)


The Agrarian Kitchen
(New Norfolk - 30 min drive from Hobart)
Housed on the rural grounds of New Norfolk’s former mental asylum, this eatery feels historic and beautiful, albeit a little bit eerie. Get the burrata with preserved lemon!

The Agrarian Kitchen Cafe (former Willow Court mental asylum)

The Agrarian Kitchen Cafe (former Willow Court mental asylum)

Wholesome community garden in New Norfolk

Wholesome community garden in New Norfolk

Port Cygnet Cannery
(Port Cygnet - 45 min drive from Hobart)
Freshly opened, make sure you book here!

Willie Smith’s Apple Shed
(Grove - 30 min drive from Hobart)
House made apple cider from crispy Tassie apples.

Fat Pig Farm
(Cygnet - 45 min drive from Hobart)
Weekly home-cooked lunches on Fridays by celeb chef Matthew Evans (from The Gourmet Farmer on SBS).
Bookings essential.


What to do


Besides eating and sighing at the wholesome views everywhere you look…

Antique / vintage / op (thrift) shopping
Hobart and surrounding towns feel small and village-y compared to bigger cities like Sydney. You’ll find odd little vintage, antique and thrift stores scattered around many of these towns, such as Lady Strange in New Norfolk, where I took home a crazy dress that I have no occasion for — yet couldn’t resist. The relative remoteness of Tasmania means that not all of these shops have been trawled by one billion hipsters, so finding some unique gems is a real possibility.


Mount Wellington
Great views of Hobart. Definitely drive or get the shuttle. The walk up is about 3 hours lol.


Off the beaten track adventuring: Bruny Island
If you’ve got time and resource (read: a car), spend a day on Bruny Island. You MUST. This was absolutely the highlight of my visit this time around. The island is covered in farmland and a small amount of residents, and the beaches are amazing, untouched and pristine. Get the car ferry from Kettering (30 min drive from Hobart) and spend the day exploring.

Take a heart-pumping walk up to The Neck lookout for unparalleled views, wander up to Cape Bruny Lighthouse to gaze out over Scotland-esque rock formations, or pull over on the lakefront and scrape fresh oysters off the rocks (we did – a definite highlight!).

Scotland or Bruny?

Scotland or Bruny?

Penguin spotting tours also operate at night on the boardwalk below the lookout.

Penguin spotting tours also operate at night on the boardwalk below the lookout.

DIY camping stove brekky whilst oyster harvesting

DIY camping stove brekky whilst oyster harvesting

One of the views from the Neck Lookout – seriously worth the stairs!

One of the views from the Neck Lookout – seriously worth the stairs!

Waterfront farmland – can you say dream house?

Waterfront farmland – can you say dream house?

Fresher oysters simply do not exist.

Fresher oysters simply do not exist.

Cape Bruny Lighthouse

Cape Bruny Lighthouse

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A word of wisdom though, the most untouched (tourist-less) beauty actually lies at the south end of the island, in South Bruny National Park. Stock up on some picnic supplies at the Farm Gate Market in Hobart, and swap the crowds at the touristy Bruny eateries for some quiet coastlines down south. By now we’re talking unsealed roads (and therefore your own car if you’re not a hire car risk-taker), but you will be rewarded with some of the most pristine beaches you’ve ever seen. Try Jetty Beach Camping Area for a gorgeous stretch of white sand and clear blue ocean.

Jetty Beach - one of the most pristine you’ll ever see. Magical on a SUP.

Jetty Beach - one of the most pristine you’ll ever see. Magical on a SUP.

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