City Guide: Ho Chi Minh City
Words and Photography by Hannah Dace
@hannahedace
Tradition and modernity come together in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s sprawling southern metropolis. Formerly known as Saigon, this is a city with 24 unique districts, where buildings, cultures and cuisines ebb and flow as you pound the hot pavements from one to the next (sometimes easier than weaving through the river of motorbikes in the streets). There’s history in spades (incense-infused temples, Renaissance-reminiscent post offices and eye-opening war museums), but there’s always something new on the horizon too – be that a café, contemporary restaurant or sleek skyscraper. HCMC blends two worlds into one, and does so with a sprinkle of energy and charm. Brave the early alarms and see the best of the city at dawn – everything takes a slightly slower pace, slightly less chaotic – it will be worth the early rise.
Where to stay
Myst Dong Khoi might have an air for minimalism, but many of the materials are reclaimed – take the recycled timber sofas and the ceiling made of roof tiles, iron beams and metal grills from old shipyards. Central Hotel des Arts certainly boasts an impressive display of art, but the masterstroke is the skyline views from the rooftop pool (plus swim-up bar). There are several swish bars and French-Vietnamese restaurants at the hotel, but you’re also in a prime location to eat your way through hip District 3.
Watch the sun dip over the lazy river at An Lam Retreats Saigon River – a former private home that’s now a sanctuary of leafy gardens, river views and peaceful corners, just 15 minutes from the city centre by speedboat. Locally sourced materials and handmade rattan furniture make up the rooms, and the Sen restaurant is as idyllic as you can expect to find in a city that operates at full throttle, with its open air, water-hugging location and atmospheric Vietnamese lanterns. Book your room through Mr & Mrs Smith for added niceties including welcome drinks and bottles of sparkling wine.
What to do
Start in HCMC’s historic heart. Visit the War Remnants Museum, the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica, and the Saigon Central Post Office (a unique yellow façade that fuses French and east Asian design). District 2, also known as Thảo Điền, is removed from District 1 by the river – this area of boutiques, restaurants, art galleries and drinking venues is also your best bet for vegan or dairy-free eats. Head to hip District 3 for colonial architecture, modern cafés, temples and cocktail bars; or District 5 – otherwise known as Chợ Lớn – which is the city’s Chinatown and filled with ornate temples, teahouses, markets and pagodas.
Go slightly out of town to the legendary Củ Chi tunnels – a subterranean maze of 75 miles worth of narrow passages used by the Vietnamese during the war – or brush up your Muay Thai skills at Saigon Sports Club for something entirely different.
Where to eat
HCMC is a food-lovers destination: you’ll likely yourself enjoying humble street food and haute cuisine in the same day. Start with iced coffee (this city takes coffee very seriously) – we liked The Workshop in District 1. The homey Old Compass Café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving traditional Vietnamese dishes including much-loved bánh mì sandwiches. Go to the rooftop at the Secret Garden for home-cooked Vietnamese dishes, or Bà Bà for rice noodles and spring rolls. Chinese-Vietnamese food is at its best in Cholon – head to Hai Ki Mi Gia, a legendary family-run restaurant specialising in duck noodle soup.
42 Nguyen Hue Street is a good bet for lunches. This nine-storey mid-century building is now a stack of restaurants, cafés and boutiques (we liked Dosh for doughnuts and Poke Saigon for fresh Hawaiian bowls). Pizza 4P’s is something of an institution. Toppings include teriyaki chicken, soy garlic beef, salmon sashimi and miso gratin with Japanese scallops. Go for brunch or dinner at The Deck in District 2, a sleek restaurant on the river, or for bao buns and rice bowls at Baozi, a tiny Taiwanese eatery in District 1.
Explore more of Asia’s mega metropolises with our Singapore and Kuala Lumpur guides.
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